美护巨头，集体大动作

中国基金报

7小时前

美护巨头们开始“硅基进化”——美护巨头们正集体将AI从锦上添花的营销工具，变为决定未来竞争力的核心引擎。　　作者：赵心怡　　化学家们曾需耗时多年，在数以万计的化合物组合中，为新一代防晒产品寻找那个“完美配方”。　　2026年3月，一则合作公告为这个传统流程按下了“快进键”。　　行业龙头欧莱雅与AI芯片巨头英伟达宣布扩大全球战略合作，联合打造专属美妆护肤AI引擎，实现化妆品配方研发的原子级精准...

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　　雅诗兰黛与微软合作的AI生态系统，能将全球消费数据转为实时决策；资生堂则自研AI系统，用于评估成分安全性并创造融合香氛的创新产品。 　　一场全球性的“硅基进化”正在上演，AI在美妆行业的应用已从前端的数字营销，深入至最核心的科研腹地。  AI“军备竞赛”启动　　从欧莱雅和英伟达的合作历程，可以清晰地看出“美护+AI”的升级路径。 　　2025年6月，双方合作还只是聚焦于数字营销领域，欧莱雅通过英伟达AI平台支持产品3D设计等创新应用。而不到一年后的深化合作，则直接将AI应用从前端营销延伸至核心研发创新体系。 　　此次合作核心是将英伟达的Alchemi机器学习框架及仿真工具融入欧莱雅研发生态，打造可实现成分功效虚拟仿真的AI引擎。该引擎“虚拟试错”功能，可让科研人员在数字环境模拟成分性能等，将防晒产品等复杂配方研发速度提升100倍。 　　英伟达零售和消费品包装品人工智能副总裁兼总经理Azita Martin表示：“通过将NVIDIA ALCHEMI集成到其研发工作流程中，欧莱雅集团可以在原子尺度上模拟成分性能，加速配方方面的突破性发现与进程，并为消费者提供先进的美妆和预防性产品。” 　　拥有近80年历史的雅诗兰黛正将海量消费者数据转化为AI时代核心竞争优势。通过与微软合作，雅诗兰黛构建了AI创新实验室，其核心成果是智能体“ConsumerIQ”，该系统能分析企业档案数据，快速提取关键洞见。 　　雅诗兰黛品牌技术负责人Jayesh Mehta称，现在提问就能获答案，无需等待三天的人工调研。这一系统整合利用集团分散在近25个品牌与150个运营国家和地区的数据，加速了从趋势发现到产品匹配再到市场化的全流程。 　　资生堂也在今年2月推出了两款自研AI智能系统，分别聚焦化妆品成分的生物降解性评估与安全信息识别。 　　联合利华则于去年7月正式发布“AI for Science”创新平台，六大AI模型贯穿原料筛选、活性物发现、功效验证全流程，将原本需要3~5年的成分研发周期压缩至数月，研发成本直降九成。  中国品牌的路径　　当国际巨头在AI赛道上加速布局时，中国美护上市公司也在以更灵活、更本土化的策略，探索AI之路。 　　记者从业内了解到，国货美护龙头珀莱雅的战略合作伙伴恩和科技（Bota），近期正式发布了全球首个面向生物制造领域的Physical AI平台——SAION AI。 图源：珀莱雅官微 　　珀莱雅相关人士告诉记者，SAION AI除了技术层面的突破外，更重要的是改变了传统生物技术与消费产业之间的转化逻辑。 　　“合成生物学逐渐成为美妆产业的重要技术来源。通过微生物发酵生产活性分子，不仅能够实现更加稳定的成分品质，还能够提升生产效率与可持续性。然而，从实验室成果向工业产品的转化长期面临周期冗长、转化率低等瓶颈。”上述相关人士解释道。 　　SAION AI的出现能够缩短研发周期，开发出更多来源可持续、功能精确的活性成分。珀莱雅作为拥有成熟产研体系和消费洞察能力的商业终端，可以将创新成果快速转化为面向市场的产品。 　　由此可见，一条“AI生物研发—合成生物制造—功效原料创新—美妆产品应用”的全链路创新范式正在形成。 　　因薇诺娜品牌而闻名的贝泰妮，也正在通过AI技术从单一品牌向“皮肤健康生态集团”跨越。今年1月，贝泰妮和耀速科技达成战略合作，双方将共建“AI+器官芯片”功效评价平台。　　据贝泰妮相关负责人介绍，此次合作旨在将功效性护肤品研发从传统模式推进至智能化、拟人化评估新阶段。后续双方将依托耀速“3D-Wet-AI”平台，把成分筛选、功效验证和机理研究推向更高科研层级。　　贝泰妮相关负责人还向记者分享道，AI在公司的战略定位中是“系统能力的加速器”。贝泰妮的底层能力始终围绕皮肤科学和植物原料研究，AI的作用在于让这套能力运转得更高效、更精准。　　此外，和国际巨头相比，贝泰妮将AI应用聚焦在“中国特色植物资源”和“亚洲人群皮肤问题”两个核心场景中。该负责人认为，AI场景的聚焦，能够让贝泰妮在特定领域的积累更有针对性。 算法定义未来？　　传统美妆行业的竞争更多体现为“信息竞争”——谁的成分更前沿？谁的功效数据更扎实？谁的价格更具优势？ 　　但在AI时代，信息壁垒正被迅速瓦解。消费者可以通过AI工具轻松获取任意产品的成分分析、功效对比与真实评价，信息差的“护城河”正在干涸。 　　未来的行业竞争，将不再是单一品牌的较量，而是数据积累、算法精度与生态构建能力的综合比拼。 　　上海某美护品牌研发人员告诉记者，未来五年是AI重塑美妆产业的关键时期，可能会发生三大趋势变革： 　　首先是研发思路的改变，“预测式研发”比重提升。借助AI与网络药理学的结合，企业能高效筛选并设计出针对特定皮肤问题的全新活性分子；再通过超分子技术，可将这些分子构建成更稳定、更易吸收的递送系统，从而实现“精准靶向”的功效。 　　其次是个性化体验有望全面落地。消费者通过智能设备上传肌肤数据，品牌借助AI生成专属配方，甚至通过即时零售实现“当日定制、当日送达”。这种模式不仅能提升用户黏性，更能让品牌精准捕捉需求变化，实现“小批量、快迭代”的柔性生产。 　　最后是生态竞争将成为关键。未来美妆行业将形成“数据共享—技术共创—价值共生”的生态体系。头部企业通过开放平台吸引科研机构、科技公司参与，构建技术“护城河”。中小品牌则需要通过差异化定位和敏捷创新，在细分市场中寻找生存空间。 　　贝泰妮相关负责人也表示，未来一至五年，公司的AI应用将围绕三个方向展开，分别是研发端的深度应用、消费端的智能服务以及数据资产的系统化建设。　　“我们对AI的态度是拥抱但不盲从。技术是工具，真正决定企业走多远的，始终是对皮肤科学的理解、对消费者需求的洞察、对产品品质的坚守。”上述负责人总结道。　　美妆行业的AI革命已经启幕。在效率与体验双重升级中率先完成智能化转型的品牌，将在未来市场竞争中占制高点。对消费者来说，更个性、更科学、更高效的美妆新时代正加速到来。（文章来源：中国基金报）","kind":"news","is_publish_news":true,"is_publish_highlight":false,"is_publish_live":false,"is_publish_wemedia":null,"editions":null,"column":"","sentiment":"0","news_tag":"","news_rank":0,"symbols":[],"gpt_button":0,"need_auth":false,"code":"91000000","status":"200"}}}