Gordon Ramsay Found a Love for Food Peeling Veggies for His Mom -- WSJ

Dow Jones
25 Dec 2024

By Marc Myers

Gordon Ramsay, 58, is a British Michelin-star restaurateur, celebrity chef and author. He is the host of Fox's "Kitchen Nightmares: Road to Super Bowl LIX," premiering Jan. 7, and season 4 of "Next Level Chef," starting Feb. 13.

Houses meant little to me growing up in Scotland and England. My family lived in around 20 of them, and some weren't even houses. They were decrepit rentals in trailer parks.

We weren't in most of them long. The only residence of real substance was public housing in the industrial section of Stratford-upon-Avon when I was 10.

Sometimes we'd move every two months, sometimes every six. My father had trouble holding jobs and was a womanizer and an abusive alcoholic, which often left my mother bruised and scrambling to make ends meet for us.

I was born just outside of Glasgow, Scotland. At the time, my father, Gordon Sr., managed a couple of swimming pools. As a guitarist, he dreamed of becoming a rock star. We came second, if at all.

Despite our serial moves, I was outgoing and made friends easily. Then we'd disappear at night and end up in another town a week later. What hurt more than anything were the sports mates I lost.

My love of food began in Stratford-upon-Avon. My mum, Helen, had a part-time job as a cook at a local bistro on a prominent street. She also held down two other jobs.

Before soccer practice and after matches, I'd help her prep by carrying goods from the car and peeling the vegetables. I looked forward to our quality time together.

I suspect my father's problem was a crossover of multiple issues, including inheriting alcoholism, never feeling as if he measured up and grinding bitterness over a dream that wasn't working out.

In all fairness, Dad was a talented guitarist, but to the detriment of the family, he wasn't talented enough. It was as if he was pretending to be a star, and we were caught in his mess.

Through all the strife, Mum was calm and collected. She'd had all four kids by the time she was just 21. Sadly, she'd spent time in foster care, in a children's home, because her mother had died after giving birth to her sister.

She told me early on, "Work hard, get your priorities right and everything will fall into place." I took that advice to heart. I was always by her side.

I was tight with my older sister, Diane, and my younger brother and sister, Ronnie and Yvonne. We were all close in age and shared the stress of poverty and uncertainty.

Between ages 12 and 15, I watched as Dad packed his guitar and amp and headed off to far-off places for three or four weeks at a time. Mum had to deal with people knocking on the door, chasing money.

The family grew closer each time he left. Then there would be a wake of destruction when he returned. For us, he became something of an unwanted guest who kept returning and constantly disrupted Mum's life. I knew that wasn't how I wanted to live mine.

After I graduated in 1982, I enrolled at North Oxfordshire Technical College. I always had a good appetite, solid table manners and a strong work ethic. Mum had taught me how to use a fork and knife, and how to move quickly and efficiently in the kitchen.

I majored in hotel catering but found I was much happier with my freedom in the kitchen. The first person to see my potential was Andy Rogers, head chef at the Wroxton House Hotel south of Stratford-upon-Avon.

I couldn't afford an apartment, so I lived there and worked four or five days a week. This allowed me to go to college two days a week. One day, Andy said, "Once you've graduated, go to London and get yourself into a decent kitchen. There's something exciting in the way you move and learn quickly."

After college, off I went to London and worked in a series of restaurants. My turning point was working for Marco Pierre White at Harveys, starting in 1987. For 2 1/2 years, I wasn't interested in holidays or relationships. I just put my head down and dug in.

Today, my wife, Tana, and I and our six kids divide our time between residences in London and Los Angeles.

In 2011, we bought our L.A. home, which is modeled on a 1700s Connecticut farmhouse. We renovated but kept it humble. The house is modest and inviting. In London, we moved into a four-story, 1970s townhouse in 2001, after converting it into a single-family dwelling.

The last time I saw my father, he was homeless. Toward the end of 1997, I got a call from my brother who gave me a number to reach him. I took out money to rent him a place and invited him to my restaurant for dinner on Jan. 28. On New Year's Eve, I heard he'd died. He never tasted my cooking.

Gordon's Ranges

Mother? She's still going strong and is an amazing woman. My biggest achievement in life, apart from my family, was buying her a house 30 years ago. Every detail was part of her dream.

Staying fit? Cycling and swimming in L.A. In London, I run along the River Thames through to Hammersmith and back.

Kitchens? The ranges are built into the marble counter, so the kids sit there and get served straight from the stove. While we cook, we connect with them.

Dish your family loves? My braised short ribs with mac and cheese.

Fast plate? Capellini with a few chopped anchovies, a half-teaspoon of fresh chopped chili and some minced garlic. After cooking fresh capellini, I mix it all together with a dash of hot sauce.

 

(END) Dow Jones Newswires

December 24, 2024 11:00 ET (16:00 GMT)

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