This week, before we head out to tackle our longest trail to date along the Eastern Coastal Loop, we’re fuelling up at a legendary landmark in Singapore’s easternmost corner. Changi Village Hawker Centre is home to several goreng pisang stalls serving up battered, deep-fried bananas and other indulgent snacks.

The stall with arguably the longest queue has a 40-year history, but the face behind it might be unfamiliar to longtime fans. Calmly frying fritters like a pro, it’s hard to believe Andy Cheng, 52, has been doing this for less than a year.

This is Traditional Million Star Fried Banana, and it comes with a story as compelling as its secret-recipe batter. It’s the reboot of a Changi Village stalwart once run by 82-year-old Wendy Chan, along with her husband and son. But after losing both within 17 months, she struggled to manage alone – until Cheng came along.

Formerly in luxury retail, Cheng never imagined he’d end up behind a wok. But after spending over a decade working for major labels in mainland China and Hong Kong, he returned to Singapore and at 50, found himself at a crossroads.

“There was this moment when I decided I was sick of all the corporate politics. Why not find something I’m really interested in? I bumped into Aunty Wendy and took a leap of faith,” he said.

After a friend’s recommendation, Cheng tried their goreng pisang and was so impressed that on his return visit, spontaneously offered to help. That led to two months of part-time work with Chan and the start of a new chapter – with a few twists and turns along the way.

During his apprenticeship, Cheng learned she hoped to retire. Though he was keen to continue for her, she eventually sold the business, reportedly for a six-figure sum. However, she wasn’t too happy when the buyer partnered with a competitor. So with Cheng’s encouragement, she decided to make a comeback.

Thus, the new Million Star Fried Banana was set up at a new unit in October 2024. Since then, Cheng has been working hard to uphold the standards customers expect.

“When I took over, I had no frying experience, so it was a stressful two weeks of trial and error. I made a lot of mistakes,” he laughed.

Business started slow, giving him time to hone his craft while word spread of Million Star’s return. Now, he’s the picture of cool control behind the blazing wok. First out of the sizzling oil and straight into my greedy hands was their goreng pisang (S$1.50) – a whole banana, battered and deep-fried.

A marvellous contrast of hot, crispy exterior and warm, creamy interior – it was clear why this is their signature snack. A golden sheath of blistered batter encased a sweet, velvety banana core. Cheng only uses Pisang Raja – the king of bananas – from Malaysia for their star fritter.

“We live by the banana,” Cheng quipped. “We’re usually closed on Mondays and Thursdays, but sometimes we change off days because if the bananas are ripe, we have to open.”

As for the batter, it’s Million Star’s secret weapon – fragrant, surprisingly savoury, and so crispy you can hear the crunch.

“It stays crispy for up to four hours because we use really high heat to get that wok hei (smoky breath of the wok),” Cheng said with pride, pointing out the air bubbles that make for an extra fluffy batter. “I also like to have a little more salt to balance the sweetness.”

Then came goreng pisang’s rotund cousin – the banana ball (S$1.00), studded with crispy batter bits. Moist and delicate inside, with a bittersweet caramelised crust, it tasted nothing like its “ugly ball” nickname.

“It looks ugly but is one of our bestsellers,” Cheng said. “We don't like to waste, so when bananas are too ripe, we mince them with a little flour and sugar and fry. The charred effect makes it special – it’s slightly chewy outside and soft inside.”

Between bites, Cheng recommended I pause for a palate-cleansing coconut and aloe vera drink (S$1.80) from Riverside Sugarcane Juice (#01-14). If you prefer kopi or teh, the popular Choon Huat Coffee Stall is conveniently next door.

Refreshed, I continued with a green bean fritter (S$1.20) – perfect if your tastes run more savoury. The deep-fried disc of battered chunky mash was a sleeper hit – salty, toasty and made fresh daily.

“Early in the morning, we steam, bake and mince the beans, shape, then batter and fry. We also have battered tapioca, all not from a factory,” Cheng emphasised. “Like our bananas, sweet potato and yam, all have their own (cooking) timings. We don’t just go by feeling. We use a stopwatch every time.”

Next up, the battered cempedak (S$1.50). The fruit stayed juicy, releasing a sweet pungency that played nicely with the savoury crust. Andy only uses honey cempedak from Malaysia and doubles up on fruit when packing each crispy pocket.

Rounding off my snack fest was Million Star’s flamboyant three-in-one sweet cake (S$1.80). Its innocuous name belied the decadence of nian gao (sticky glutinous rice cake) sandwiched between yam and sweet potato. The triple-layered hulk was so rich, it’s best shared. The contrast of crisp, starchy and gooey textures was immensely satisfying – just watch out for the molten ooze of nian gao.

Quality ingredients, small batch frying, and strict adherence to Chan's instructions have been Cheng’s blueprint to establishing the new Million Star, though one thing remains a mystery. He still doesn’t know the full recipe for her outstanding batter. When supplies run low, she provides him with a “special concoction” to add to the flour.

“Aunty is very clever, very dynamic. The way she counts money is faster than anybody else,” Cheng joked. “For her to part with her recipe, I’d have to have to pay her royalties. For now, I think it’s nice that when I need, I just call. She sells the concoction to me and once in a while she likes to come down to do a little frying. This is her brand. My job is not to take the business and kick her out. It’s to let her enjoy working and socialising so she won’t keep thinking about the past.”

With their renewed, batter-bound purpose, the future of Million Star shines once more. And with my batteries fully charged, I packed up my leftovers, determined to put to their crispiness to the test on the ambitious trek ahead.

Just like Million Star’s fritters, this 22km route is not for the faint of heart, but I had many calories to burn. My plan was to cross nearby Changi Point Bridge, join the Coastal Park Connector via Changi Beach Park, then power on along Aviation Park and Tanah Merah Coast Roads to East Coast Park.

Not up for a marathon walk? Stay close to Changi Village and explore Changi Point Coastal Walk instead. This picturesque 2.2km boardwalk is open 24 hours, from the Pulau Ubin ferry terminal to the colonial bungalows of Fairy Point.

As for my chosen five-hour slog, it can be broken up with detours to notable sights like the Singapore Navy Museum and Changi Jurassic Mile. Many rest stops and snack breaks later (the batter held up!), I finally arrived at East Coast Park. At Bedok Jetty, I polished off the last crispy crumb of goreng pisang and thought about Cheng’s parting words.

“You see tradition together with a little bit of innovation and creative fun,” he said, gesturing at the Million Star stall front, festooned with cartoon inflatables and cute figurines. “You know what I think? Happy food, happy environment.”

After my epic snack-and-walk adventure, I couldn’t agree more. Well said. And well fried.

Traditional Million Star Fried Banana is located at 2 Changi Village Rd, #01-35, Changi Village Hawker Centre, Singapore 500002. It’s open 10am to 5pm, usually closed on Mondays and Thursdays (subject to fruit season).

Catch Makan Kakis with Denise Tan every Thursday from 11am on MediaCorp GOLD 905.